Hygience glueing a chopping board

[Tim west]

An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.

I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.

What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 11:32:29 -0000, "Tim west"
<timedream95(remoove)@gmail.com> wrote:

>An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
>I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
>the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
>What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
>

Nail varnish may work, but it has little solids and could take many
coats, depending on the size of the crack. I'd make epoxy my first
choice.

[tiredofspam]

On 12/2/2012 8:17 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 11:32:29 -0000, "Tim west"
> <timedream95(remoove)@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>>
>> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
>> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>>
>> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
>>
>
> Nail varnish may work, but it has little solids and could take many
> coats, depending on the size of the crack. I'd make epoxy my first
> choice.
>
Yep, agreed, epoxy is the best gap filler for this

[ImStillMags]

On Sunday, December 2, 2012 3:32:29 AM UTC-8, Tim west remoove wrote:
> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
>
>
> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>
> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on mostof
>
> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
>
>
> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>
> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying




Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it? If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it sit for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.

Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for cutting boards.
>
> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?

[Brooklyn1]

ImStillMags wrote:
>Tim west remoove wrote:
>>
>> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
>> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>
>Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
>If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
>in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it sit
>for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
>that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
>Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
>cutting boards.

Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
the next section:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 09:40:19 -0800 (PST), ImStillMags
<sitara8060@gmai[email protected]> wrote:

>Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for cutting boards.
>>

Cutting board oil is mineral oil. Usually about $1 or so from CVS,
but $9 from a gourmet kitchen place.

[isw]

In article <[email protected]>,
tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:

> On 12/2/2012 8:17 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> > On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 11:32:29 -0000, "Tim west"
> > <timedream95(remoove)@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> >> seam.
> >>
> >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some
> >> and
> >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most
> >> of
> >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> >>
> >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
> >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
> >> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
> >>
> >
> > Nail varnish may work, but it has little solids and could take many
> > coats, depending on the size of the crack. I'd make epoxy my first
> > choice.
> >
> Yep, agreed, epoxy is the best gap filler for this

If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
work that into the cracks.

Isaac

[Doug Winterburn]

On 12/02/2012 04:32 AM, Tim west wrote:
> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
>
>

I'd run each edge surface over the jointer until flat, then re-glue with
TB3.

--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 2, 12:28*pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
> ImStillMags wrote:
> >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
> >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
> >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
> >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
> >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>
> >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> >If not, that's why you have a gap. * I would suggest putting more glue
> >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it sit
> >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. * Any excess glue
> >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
> >cutting boards.
>
> Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> splinter the wood before those gaps close. *At this point fill the
> gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> use Gorilla Glue. *If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> the next section: *http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288

Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
indirect contact as in cutting boards).

But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
obstructions.

http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...#axzz2E0JwDyZw

[Cheri]

"spamtrap1888" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
> ImStillMags wrote:
> >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> >> seam.
> >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some
> >> and
> >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
> >> most of
> >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this?
> >> I
> >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>
> >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> >If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
> >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
> >sit
> >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
> >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
> >cutting boards.
>
> Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
> gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> the next section:
> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288

Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
indirect contact as in cutting boards).

But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
obstructions.

http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...#axzz2E0JwDyZw



========

I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
them. Why would you though?

Cheri

[jmcquown]

On 12/3/2012 10:52 AM, Cheri wrote:
>> >Tim west remoove wrote:
>>
> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> obstructions.
>
> ========
>
> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> to them. Why would you though?
>
> Cheri

LOL I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
chopping board. And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
to it.

Jill

[George M. Middius]

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

> Cutting board oil is mineral oil. Usually about $1 or so from CVS,

Oh come on. The only thing at CVS under $1 is a candy bar.

I just checked cvs.com and their online price is $4.23.

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 7:52*am, "Cheri" <cher...@newsguy.com> wrote:
> "spamtrap1888" <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > ImStillMags wrote:
> > >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> > >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> > >> seam.
> > >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some
> > >> and
> > >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
> > >> most of
> > >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> > >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this?
> > >> I
> > >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>
> > >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> > >If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
> > >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
> > >sit
> > >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
> > >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> > >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
> > >cutting boards.
>
> > Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> > too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> > splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
> > gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> > away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> > glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> > use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> > gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> > the next section:
> >http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288
>
> Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
> indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> obstructions.
>
> http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#...
>
> ========
>
> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
> them. Why would you though?
>

Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
items (and food: the two categories may overlap).

People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
like glue.

Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
emergency surgery?

[spamtrap1888]

On Dec 3, 8:48*am, jmcquown <j_mcqu...@comcast.net> wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 10:52 AM, Cheri wrote:
>
> >> >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> > But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> > filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> > obstructions.
>
> > ========
>
> > I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> > to them. Why would you though?
>
> > Cheri
>
> LOL *I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
> chopping board.

The life-threatening feature of Gorilla Glue is that it expands when
exposed to moisture, which dogs and people are full of.

>And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
> to it.

Vets see several cases each year -- why not ask the owners?

[jmcquown]

On 12/3/2012 12:58 PM, spamtrap1888 wrote:
> On Dec 3, 7:52 am, "Cheri" <cher...@newsguy.com> wrote:
>> "spamtrap1888" <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...
>> On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> ImStillMags wrote:
>>>> Tim west remoove wrote:
>>
>>>>> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
>>>>> seam.
>>>>> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some
>>>>> and
>>>>> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
>>>>> most of
>>>>> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>>>>> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this?
>>>>> I
>>>>> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>>
>>>> Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
>>>> If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
>>>> in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
>>>> sit
>>>> for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
>>>> that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
>>>> Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made for
>>>> cutting boards.
>>
>>> Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
>>> too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
>>> splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
>>> gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
>>> away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
>>> glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
>>> use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
>>> gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
>>> the next section:
>>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288
>>
>> Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
>> indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>>
>> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
>> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
>> obstructions.
>>
>> http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#...
>>
>> ========
>>
>> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
>> them. Why would you though?
>>
>
> Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
> out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
> items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
That is the assumption, yes. I store things like glue (except Elmer's
plain white glue for paper which is kept in a kitchen drawer) in the
garage. I have a tube of Gorilla Glue in the garage on a shelf next to
some paint, turpentine, plant food, weed killer. Why would I keep that
stuff where my pet could get at it?

> People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
> like glue.
>
> Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
> emergency surgery?
>
I didn't know it but it's a non-issue for me since I don't let pets get
near toxic stuff. This time of year people love poinsettia plants.
Sure, they're pretty. They're also pretty toxic. Ditto many kinds of
lillies. Hence, none of them in my house.

Responsible pet owners should know all this. The operative word is
"responsible".

Jill

[Cheri]

"spamtrap1888" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]..
On Dec 3, 7:52 am, "Cheri" <cher...@newsguy.com> wrote:
> "spamtrap1888" <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
> On Dec 2, 12:28 pm, Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > ImStillMags wrote:
> > >Tim west remoove wrote:
>
> > >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> > >> seam.
> > >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have
> > >> some
> > >> and
> > >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on
> > >> most of
> > >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> > >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for
> > >> this?
> > >> I
> > >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick
> > >> drying
>
> > >Did you use a clamp to squeeze the board together when you glued it?
> > >If not, that's why you have a gap. I would suggest putting more glue
> > >in the gap....this time using a clamp to squeeze it tightly......let it
> > >sit
> > >for a few days to set and dry before unclamping it. Any excess glue
> > >that has squeezed out of the gap can be gently sanded off.
> > >Then sand the whole board and treat it with food safe oil or one made
> > >for
> > >cutting boards.
>
> > Once glued it's too late for regluing, once that glue has dried it's
> > too late to close those gaps by clamping, applying pressure will
> > splinter the wood before those gaps close. At this point fill the
> > gaps with plastic wood or carefully take the board apart, scrape/sand
> > away that dried glue and then reglue by clamping but use the correct
> > glue... there are glues that expand to fill any voids as it cures...
> > use Gorilla Glue. If the board is important I'd dowel it too before
> > gluing... there are inexpensive jigs that will tranfer hole centers to
> > the next section:
> >http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42288
>
> Only Gorilla's Wood Glue is advertised as being food safe (for
> indirect contact as in cutting boards).
>
> But I wouldn't have regular Gorilla Glue in the house, because its gap
> filling nature makes it hazardous to dogs by causing bowel
> obstructions.
>
> http://triblive.com/x/pittsburghtrib...s_579850.html#...
>
> ========
>
> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access
> to
> them. Why would you though?
>

Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
items (and food: the two categories may overlap).

People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
like glue.

Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
emergency surgery?
========

That might be true in your case, I don't know. There is nothing hazardous in
my house that is within my dogs range or reach, same with my grandkids. I am
hypervigilant with things that matter. Oh, and I have lots of Gorilla Glue
on the top shelf of my cupboard. YMMV

Cheri

[Dave Smith]

On 03/12/2012 11:48 AM, jmcquown wrote:

> LOL I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
> chopping board. And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
> to it.
>
>
I wonder if you could use that glue to stop a dog from licking its nuts.

[jmcquown]

On 12/3/2012 1:39 PM, Dave Smith wrote:
> On 03/12/2012 11:48 AM, jmcquown wrote:
>
>> LOL I was wondering why the dog(s) would have access to a kitchen
>> chopping board. And why any glue would be stored where a dog could get
>> to it.
>>
>>
> I wonder if you could use that glue to stop a dog from licking its nuts.
>
There is this thing called neutering...

Jill

[Brooklyn1]

isw wrote:
>
>If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>work that into the cracks.

Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
wood filler:
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...FedxOgod1w4AIg

[Brooklyn1]

spamtrap1888 wrote:
>"Cheri" wrote:
>>
>> I imagine a lot of things are hazardous to dogs if you allow them access to
>> them. Why would you though?
>
>Your question assumes that people naturally keep all household items
>out of their dogs' reach, while in real life, they only put hazardous
>items (and food: the two categories may overlap).
>
>People are not naturally hypervigilant about common household items
>like glue.

Speaking for yourself...

>Did you even know that Gorilla Glue could mean a trip to the vet for
>emergency surgery?

You very obviously never had children, Ptrap.
You are far dumber than anyone has previously surmised.