TN: 1982 Right Bank Bordeaux at 30
Our little group finished our trilogy of 1982 Bordeaux 30 year retrospectives with the Right Bank last night (following Medoc in March and mixed “cheapies” in May). I took the train down, then decided to walk to Riverparkin rain as cabs were scarce (which would have been ok, until my umbrella broke about 2/3s of way). I arrived a bit damp to find I was last (a first!).. Luckily there was a nice glass of Loire to greet me.
2007 P. Cotat “Les Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Full, rich and long , with plenty of acidic backbone. Round rich fruit (although a sip later after sipping the Donnhoff was a citrus squirt!). I really enjoyed this. A-/B+
2003 Donnhoff “Niederhauser Hermannshohle” Spatlese
A bit cold when served. Quite sweet, but good acids for 2003, pineapple andother tropical fruits, some mineral, I wished I had thought to return to this during cheese. B+/B?
I enjoyed Riverpark’s food once again- some charcuterie and little empanadas to share, then I had quail followed by a lamb “Tbone” with ribs, succotash, and pasta (the ribs were salty even for me).
Nice bottle of this! Minerally, red fruited, a pleasant herby edge. Young and vigorous, shame they don’t make like this anymore. B+/A-
(double-decanted about 1 PM) Mature but not tired, cedar and spice, picked up quite a bit with air. B+/A- by end.
1982 Clos Fourtet
I think this was a solid bottle that I’d have been happy with on my dinner table, but served next to this particular bottle of Magdelaine it came across as stolid and foursquare. Good dark fruits, espresso, leather. B
While this is an old favorite, this might be the best bottle I’ve ever had of this. Fullbodied, elegant, beautiful red fruits with cigarbox and leather notes, long and lovely. A/A-
1982 La Dominique
I’ve always liked this, and there was some good stuff here, but there wasalso some TCA. Lightly corked, but enough to take out of competition.
1982 Certan de May
(double-decanted about 1 PM) . The funkiest bottle of the tasting, but in agood way. Coffee, earth, herbs, funk dominate- there’s good fruit, but the other elements are on top. I think maybe most divisive of wines. I thought it kept getting better. A-/B+
(double-decanted about 1 PM) Lush, ripe and rich. Kirschy without being hot.. Cedar, tobacco over excellent fruit. Great length. A-/A
1982 La Conseillante
Mocha, black cherries, opulent without being heavy. Pretty classic Pomerol.A-
I admit to being an unabashed fan of 1982s- ‘82 Gloria was wine that mademe start down path to geekiness 20 years ago. So take my impressions with a grain of salt. But I will say that all of these seemed to have life aheadof them and improve with air- even when we did the cheapies (things like Rouget, Gloria, La Croix Pomerol) there were very few wines that were past it. I remember 10-15 years ago people claiming the ‘82s were peaking early..
Fun night, with a great group, and some great wines.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine,B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.