Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Jaboulet La Chapelle

  1. #1
    Bill S. Guest

    Default Jaboulet La Chapelle

    I’ve been a big fan of Jaboulet’s Northern Rhone wines since the late
    1970s, and it seemed time to do a retrospective on the Hermitage La
    Chapelle.

    I had met Girard Jaboulet on several occasions when he came to
    Vancouver with another member of the Primum Familiae Vini, an
    organization of family owned wineries, Etienne Hugel. Together they
    made an unforgettable pair, with a comedic routine that delighted
    audiences while imparting fascinating information about their wines
    and winemaking. In 1997, Gerard died tragically young and there is
    some feeling that the wind went out of thee family winemaking sails
    shortly afterward, when they began making less than stellar wines in
    vintages like 1998 and 1999 when their other competitors were getting
    much more memorable results. For that reason I included a couple of
    younger wines to see if this was true and to take a small look at what
    the new owners, the Frey family, were doing with the properties.

    The sale of this two century old wine concern in 2005 surprised me,
    and ejected them from the PFV as being no longer family owned. One of
    the new family, Caroline Frey, the winemaker at La Lagune in
    Bordeaux, is now also the winemaker at Jaboulet.

    So I set up a dinner to look at the wines of this properly, and the
    friends I invited were able to assemble a very nice survey vertical of
    the wines for us to enjoy together.

    With pan seared diver’s scallops on a bed of black rice with roasted
    tomato vinaigrette:

    2004 Chevalier de Sterimberg – had to start with a white Hermitage,
    this one a blend of something like 65% Marsanne, and 35% Roussanne.
    It had some colour, and a killer nose of dried orange peel and a waxy
    floral element, and the wine was clean and long with excellent
    balance. Best white Hermitage I’ve tasted in a along time.

    With duck confit with sour cherry sauce:

    2004 – a controversial vintage as Robert Parker stated that this wine
    was not to be made, presumably acting on advice he received from the
    winery. He stated that all of the grapes would be used for the new
    (from 2001) second wine, La Petite Chapelle. In fact the grand vin was
    made in 2004 (maybe a change of heat on the part of the owners after
    looking at the balance sheet?) and we got to taste it. It had a
    decent enough nose with some white pepper and ripe fruit, a bit
    herbal, but was tannic, lean and green, not a wine I would be happy to
    have bought to drink a decade down the road.

    1999 – another ripe nose, but this time no pepper, sweeter than the
    2004, and (thankfully) no green notes, and better fruit on palate, but
    nonetheless still and unsatisfying wine a bit on the lightweight side
    and finishing a tad short.

    With wild mushrooms on grilled pollenta with chevre chive sauce:

    1997 – ahhh – back into the ‘real stuff’! Dark colour, some heat in
    the nose, maybe a tad on the sweet side in the nose with lots of berry
    fruit and a little spiciness, on palate sweet and ripe with very good
    length. Good wine that needs time.

    1991 – big jump here because I didn’t think that the good vintages in
    the mid 90s were ready for prime time yet. This vintage, sometimes a
    bit overlooked by people more familiar with Bordeaux vintages, was
    excellent in the Northern Rhone. The wine showed an even darker
    colour than the 97, and had a nice slightly funky nose with some raw
    meat and anise, that was showing what you expect with a bit of
    maturity. Clean, bright and powerful in the mouth, very long finish a
    slight bit sweet; it was a hard choice between these two wines, the
    one ready to drink now, the other with a good future.

    With hazelnut crusted sweetbreads, crispy pancetta and Port reduction:

    1990 – this was without doubt the Latour of the Rhone. The wine was
    very dark, and sheeted down the sides of the glass. There was meat and
    pepper as well as an enticing melange of fruit and maybe a hint of
    cocoa in the nose. Huge in the mouth, a weighty wine, but also
    impeccably balanced with a truly exceptional length in the finish.
    Very youthful – if you have this wine, it is on the way up and you
    shouldn’t be tempted to broach it too soon as patience will certainly
    be well rewarded. For me to get to taste this wine and a 1983 Palmer
    all within 3 days makes it a week to truly remember!

    1988 – white pepper here, as well as a hint of mint and a very
    interesting herbal mix. This wine was elegant, fully mature, and very
    pleasurable now.

    With rack of lamb, minted gnocchi and roasted garlic jus:

    1983 – a bit of a difference of opinion between Parker and other
    reviewers on this, with RP feeling that the wine was becoming austere
    and tannic. This bottle showed a sort of wet stone and coffee nose,
    very inviting, and was clean in the mouth, neither tannic (though some
    were present) nor astringent. It was quite enjoyable, though possibly
    now in slow decline.

    1982 – not as good a nose as the 83, a little dirtier and more
    attenuated, the flavours a bit dilute, this bottle lacked fruit and
    was drying out. This is contrary to my experience with the wine, but
    then I haven’t popped a cork on one of these in awhile. I will soon,
    to double check our experience – it may just have been a poor bottle.

    With cheese:

    1979 – a warm sweet pudding sort of nose, which I always find quite
    endearing, elegant on palate, maybe getting a tad tired but still an
    interesting wine with a slightly high terminal acidity. I’ll make a
    mental note to pop a cork on one of these too.

    1978 Dom. de Thalabert Crozes Hermitage – I had this one served blind
    to see what people would make of it. Normally, a Crozes is a
    secondary wine in terms of quality to an Hermitage, but of all the
    wines made in the region, this is perhaps the best and also the
    longest lived. Jaboulet also make a negotiant version with fruit
    sourced from other properties, called Les Jalets, but it is not as
    serious a wine, nor nearly the ager that Thalabert often is. I’d
    worried a bit about this wine perhaps being a bit long in the tooth,
    but it turned out well – a reasonably fresh nose with a little cedar,
    good colour, supple in the mouth with good length, fairly sweet but
    with lots of acidity at the end. Obviously, if you happen to own this
    wine, don’t tarry about drinking it, but you still have a reasonable
    expectation of a very presentable wine when you do enjoy it.

    I feel obliged to append a short note on a couple of wines that a
    friend, also dining at the restaurant, had enjoyed that night, passing
    our table a glass of each as he departed.

    1983 Ch. La Mission Haut Brion – slightly funky nose with hint of tar,
    but great concentration and length.

    1983 Ch. Pichon Lalande – an excellent uplifted nose of fruit and
    smoke, a well integrated wine, at peak, with class and elegance, and a
    supple feel. I preferred this wine. Wish I’d had the opportunity to
    taste this against the 83 Palmer!

  2. #2
    Bi!! Guest

    Default Re: Jaboulet La Chapelle

    On Nov 17, 10:33*am, "Bill S." <wspo...@aol.com> wrote:
    > I’ve been a big fan of Jaboulet’s Northern Rhone wines since the late
    > 1970s, and it seemed time to do a retrospective on the Hermitage La
    > Chapelle.
    >
    > I had met Girard Jaboulet on several occasions when he came to
    > Vancouver with another member of the Primum Familiae Vini, an
    > organization of family owned wineries, Etienne Hugel. Together they
    > made an unforgettable pair, with a comedic routine that delighted
    > audiences while imparting fascinating information about their wines
    > and winemaking. *In 1997, Gerard died tragically young and there is
    > some feeling that the wind went out of thee family winemaking sails
    > shortly afterward, when they began making less than stellar wines in
    > vintages like 1998 and 1999 when their other competitors were getting
    > much more memorable results. *For that reason I included a couple of
    > younger wines to see if this was true and to take a small look at what
    > the new owners, the Frey family, were doing with the properties.
    >
    > The sale of this two century old wine concern in 2005 surprised me,
    > and ejected them from the PFV as being no longer family owned. *One of
    > the new family, Caroline Frey, *the winemaker at La Lagune in
    > Bordeaux, is now also the winemaker at Jaboulet.
    >
    > So I set up a dinner to look at the wines of this properly, and the
    > friends I invited were able to assemble a very nice survey vertical of
    > the wines for us to enjoy together.
    >
    > With pan seared diver’s scallops on a bed of black rice with roasted
    > tomato vinaigrette:
    >
    > 2004 Chevalier de Sterimberg – had to start with a white Hermitage,
    > this one a blend of something like 65% Marsanne, and 35% Roussanne.
    > It had some colour, and a killer nose of dried orange peel and a waxy
    > floral element, and the wine was clean and long with excellent
    > balance. *Best white Hermitage I’ve tasted in a along time.
    >
    > With duck confit with sour cherry sauce:
    >
    > 2004 – a controversial vintage as Robert Parker stated that this wine
    > was not to be made, presumably acting on advice he received from the
    > winery. He stated that all of the grapes would be used for the new
    > (from 2001) second wine, La Petite Chapelle. In fact the grand vin was
    > made in 2004 (maybe a change of heat on the part of the owners after
    > looking at the balance sheet?) and we got to taste it. * It had a
    > decent enough nose with some white pepper and ripe fruit, a bit
    > herbal, but was tannic, lean and green, not a wine I would be happy to
    > have bought to drink a decade down the road.
    >
    > 1999 – another ripe nose, but this time no pepper, sweeter than the
    > 2004, and (thankfully) no green notes, and better fruit on palate, but
    > nonetheless still and unsatisfying wine a bit on the lightweight side
    > and finishing a tad short.
    >
    > With wild mushrooms on grilled pollenta with chevre chive sauce:
    >
    > 1997 – ahhh – back into the ‘real stuff’! *Dark colour, some heat in
    > the nose, maybe a tad on the sweet side in the nose with lots of berry
    > fruit and a little spiciness, on palate sweet and ripe with very good
    > length. *Good wine that needs time.
    >
    > 1991 – big jump here because I didn’t think that the good vintages in
    > the mid 90s were ready for prime time yet. *This vintage, sometimes a
    > bit overlooked by people more familiar with Bordeaux vintages, was
    > excellent in the Northern Rhone. *The wine showed an even darker
    > colour than the 97, and had a nice slightly funky nose with some raw
    > meat and anise, that was showing what you expect with a bit of
    > maturity. *Clean, bright and powerful in the mouth, very long finish a
    > slight bit sweet; it was a hard choice between these two wines, the
    > one ready to drink now, the other with a good future.
    >
    > With hazelnut crusted sweetbreads, crispy pancetta and Port reduction:
    >
    > 1990 – this was without doubt the Latour of *the Rhone. The wine was
    > very dark, and sheeted down the sides of the glass. There was meat and
    > pepper as well as an enticing melange of fruit and maybe a hint of
    > cocoa in the nose. *Huge in the mouth, a weighty wine, but also
    > impeccably balanced with a truly exceptional length in the finish.
    > Very youthful – if you have this wine, it is on the way up and you
    > shouldn’t be tempted to broach it too soon as patience will certainly
    > be well rewarded. *For me to get to taste this wine and a 1983 Palmer
    > all within 3 days makes it a week to truly remember!
    >
    > 1988 – white pepper here, as well as a hint of mint and a very
    > interesting herbal mix. This wine was elegant, fully mature, and very
    > pleasurable now.
    >
    > With rack of lamb, minted gnocchi and roasted garlic jus:
    >
    > 1983 – * a bit of a difference of opinion between Parker and other
    > reviewers on this, with RP feeling that the wine was becoming austere
    > and tannic. *This bottle showed a sort of wet stone and coffee nose,
    > very inviting, and was clean in the mouth, neither tannic (though some
    > were present) nor astringent. *It was quite enjoyable, though possibly
    > now in slow decline.
    >
    > 1982 – not as good a nose as the 83, a little dirtier and more
    > attenuated, the flavours a bit dilute, this bottle lacked fruit and
    > was drying out. *This is contrary to my experience with the wine, but
    > then I haven’t popped a cork on one of these in awhile. I will soon,
    > to double check our experience – it may just have been a poor bottle.
    >
    > With cheese:
    >
    > 1979 – a warm sweet pudding sort of nose, which I always find quite
    > endearing, elegant on palate, maybe getting a tad tired but still an
    > interesting wine with a slightly high terminal acidity. *I’ll make a
    > mental note to pop a cork on one of these too.
    >
    > 1978 Dom. de Thalabert Crozes Hermitage – I had this one served blind
    > to see what people would make of it. *Normally, a Crozes is a
    > secondary wine in terms of quality to an Hermitage, but of all the
    > wines made in the region, this is perhaps the best and also the
    > longest lived. *Jaboulet also make a negotiant version with fruit
    > sourced from other properties, called Les Jalets, but it is not as
    > serious a wine, nor nearly the ager that Thalabert often is. *I’d
    > worried a bit about this wine perhaps being a bit long in the tooth,
    > but it turned out well – a reasonably fresh nose with a little cedar,
    > good colour, supple in the mouth with good length, fairly sweet but
    > with lots of acidity at the end. *Obviously, if you happen to own this
    > wine, don’t tarry about drinking it, but you still have a reasonable
    > expectation of a very presentable wine when you do enjoy it.
    >
    > I feel obliged to append a short note on a couple of wines that a
    > friend, also dining at the restaurant, had enjoyed that night, passing
    > our table a glass of each as he departed.
    >
    > 1983 Ch. La Mission Haut Brion – slightly funky nose with hint of tar,
    > but great concentration and length.
    >
    > 1983 Ch. Pichon Lalande – an excellent uplifted nose of fruit and
    > smoke, a well integrated wine, at peak, with class and elegance, and a
    > supple feel. *I preferred this wine. Wish I’d had the opportunity to
    > taste this against the 83 Palmer!


    Thanks for the notes. La Chapelle has long been a favorite of mine in
    good years and in bad.

  3. #3
    Mike Hagley Guest

    Default Re: Jaboulet La Chapelle

    Thank you for taking the time to make your post. I have several bottles
    from 1988-1990, but have never opened any. I guess I need to.

    Mike Hagley
    "Bill S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]..
    I’ve been a big fan of Jaboulet’s Northern Rhone wines since the late
    1970s, and it seemed time to do a retrospective on the Hermitage La
    Chapelle.

    I had met Girard Jaboulet on several occasions when he came to
    Vancouver with another member of the Primum Familiae Vini, an
    organization of family owned wineries, Etienne Hugel. Together they
    made an unforgettable pair, with a comedic routine that delighted
    audiences while imparting fascinating information about their wines
    and winemaking. In 1997, Gerard died tragically young and there is
    some feeling that the wind went out of thee family winemaking sails
    shortly afterward, when they began making less than stellar wines in
    vintages like 1998 and 1999 when their other competitors were getting
    much more memorable results. For that reason I included a couple of
    younger wines to see if this was true and to take a small look at what
    the new owners, the Frey family, were doing with the properties.

    The sale of this two century old wine concern in 2005 surprised me,
    and ejected them from the PFV as being no longer family owned. One of
    the new family, Caroline Frey, the winemaker at La Lagune in
    Bordeaux, is now also the winemaker at Jaboulet.

    So I set up a dinner to look at the wines of this properly, and the
    friends I invited were able to assemble a very nice survey vertical of
    the wines for us to enjoy together.

    With pan seared diver’s scallops on a bed of black rice with roasted
    tomato vinaigrette:

    2004 Chevalier de Sterimberg – had to start with a white Hermitage,
    this one a blend of something like 65% Marsanne, and 35% Roussanne.
    It had some colour, and a killer nose of dried orange peel and a waxy
    floral element, and the wine was clean and long with excellent
    balance. Best white Hermitage I’ve tasted in a along time.

    With duck confit with sour cherry sauce:

    2004 – a controversial vintage as Robert Parker stated that this wine
    was not to be made, presumably acting on advice he received from the
    winery. He stated that all of the grapes would be used for the new
    (from 2001) second wine, La Petite Chapelle. In fact the grand vin was
    made in 2004 (maybe a change of heat on the part of the owners after
    looking at the balance sheet?) and we got to taste it. It had a
    decent enough nose with some white pepper and ripe fruit, a bit
    herbal, but was tannic, lean and green, not a wine I would be happy to
    have bought to drink a decade down the road.

    1999 – another ripe nose, but this time no pepper, sweeter than the
    2004, and (thankfully) no green notes, and better fruit on palate, but
    nonetheless still and unsatisfying wine a bit on the lightweight side
    and finishing a tad short.

    With wild mushrooms on grilled pollenta with chevre chive sauce:

    1997 – ahhh – back into the ‘real stuff’! Dark colour, some heat in
    the nose, maybe a tad on the sweet side in the nose with lots of berry
    fruit and a little spiciness, on palate sweet and ripe with very good
    length. Good wine that needs time.

    1991 – big jump here because I didn’t think that the good vintages in
    the mid 90s were ready for prime time yet. This vintage, sometimes a
    bit overlooked by people more familiar with Bordeaux vintages, was
    excellent in the Northern Rhone. The wine showed an even darker
    colour than the 97, and had a nice slightly funky nose with some raw
    meat and anise, that was showing what you expect with a bit of
    maturity. Clean, bright and powerful in the mouth, very long finish a
    slight bit sweet; it was a hard choice between these two wines, the
    one ready to drink now, the other with a good future.

    With hazelnut crusted sweetbreads, crispy pancetta and Port reduction:

    1990 – this was without doubt the Latour of the Rhone. The wine was
    very dark, and sheeted down the sides of the glass. There was meat and
    pepper as well as an enticing melange of fruit and maybe a hint of
    cocoa in the nose. Huge in the mouth, a weighty wine, but also
    impeccably balanced with a truly exceptional length in the finish.
    Very youthful – if you have this wine, it is on the way up and you
    shouldn’t be tempted to broach it too soon as patience will certainly
    be well rewarded. For me to get to taste this wine and a 1983 Palmer
    all within 3 days makes it a week to truly remember!

    1988 – white pepper here, as well as a hint of mint and a very
    interesting herbal mix. This wine was elegant, fully mature, and very
    pleasurable now.

    With rack of lamb, minted gnocchi and roasted garlic jus:

    1983 – a bit of a difference of opinion between Parker and other
    reviewers on this, with RP feeling that the wine was becoming austere
    and tannic. This bottle showed a sort of wet stone and coffee nose,
    very inviting, and was clean in the mouth, neither tannic (though some
    were present) nor astringent. It was quite enjoyable, though possibly
    now in slow decline.

    1982 – not as good a nose as the 83, a little dirtier and more
    attenuated, the flavours a bit dilute, this bottle lacked fruit and
    was drying out. This is contrary to my experience with the wine, but
    then I haven’t popped a cork on one of these in awhile. I will soon,
    to double check our experience – it may just have been a poor bottle.

    With cheese:

    1979 – a warm sweet pudding sort of nose, which I always find quite
    endearing, elegant on palate, maybe getting a tad tired but still an
    interesting wine with a slightly high terminal acidity. I’ll make a
    mental note to pop a cork on one of these too.

    1978 Dom. de Thalabert Crozes Hermitage – I had this one served blind
    to see what people would make of it. Normally, a Crozes is a
    secondary wine in terms of quality to an Hermitage, but of all the
    wines made in the region, this is perhaps the best and also the
    longest lived. Jaboulet also make a negotiant version with fruit
    sourced from other properties, called Les Jalets, but it is not as
    serious a wine, nor nearly the ager that Thalabert often is. I’d
    worried a bit about this wine perhaps being a bit long in the tooth,
    but it turned out well – a reasonably fresh nose with a little cedar,
    good colour, supple in the mouth with good length, fairly sweet but
    with lots of acidity at the end. Obviously, if you happen to own this
    wine, don’t tarry about drinking it, but you still have a reasonable
    expectation of a very presentable wine when you do enjoy it.

    I feel obliged to append a short note on a couple of wines that a
    friend, also dining at the restaurant, had enjoyed that night, passing
    our table a glass of each as he departed.

    1983 Ch. La Mission Haut Brion – slightly funky nose with hint of tar,
    but great concentration and length.

    1983 Ch. Pichon Lalande – an excellent uplifted nose of fruit and
    smoke, a well integrated wine, at peak, with class and elegance, and a
    supple feel. I preferred this wine. Wish I’d had the opportunity to
    taste this against the 83 Palmer!


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32