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Thread: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mourv=E8drenight_with_friends?=

  1. #1
    Nils Gustaf Lindgren Guest

    Default =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mourv=E8drenight_with_friends?=

    Hello,
    We had decided to gather a few friends to test a battery of Mourvèdrewines
    but unfortunately, everybody had previous engagements except the old guard
    Jan-Olof and Catarina. So the battery was diminished.
    For aperitif one of these older German wines that now and then for unknown
    reasons surface on the Swedish Systembolaget:
    Erdener Treppchen Auslese 1994 from Schwaab Kiebel in Ürzig
    Nose of ripe apples and petroleum
    Good structure, mouthcleaning acidity and sweetness. Possibly a tad too
    sweet for aperitif but what the hey, it's Saturday. ALso funny old style
    label with pictures and coats of arms and Gothic writing. Wheee!

    Two whites semiblind (one of theirs, one of ours)
    First is golden in color, giving the impression of a certain age.
    Nose intensely of apples.
    Mouthfeel a certain fizz giving the lie to the color. Still apples,
    noticeable RS. Not appreciable acidity - what is this? My guess is something
    from either ALsace or Germany, Pinot Gris/Grauburgunder?
    No, wrong - an MSR Riesling from 2003, admittedly atypical, though acidity
    gets stronger, possibly as temperature rises:
    Pündericher Marienberg Spätlese TRocken 2004 from Clemens Busch
    TRocken? Weeeell ... Funnily, it had a finish reminiscent of Gewurz, or
    confusingly, white pepper.
    Second almost same color, a bit of initial funk blows away and again,
    apples. Here there is no hint of sweetness and acidity is prominent, also
    noticeable bitterness from oak contact. Our guest had no difficulty
    identifying it as Chenin Blanc which was correct:
    Ch de Fesle Sec 2003, Anjou AC.
    We had with this what the recipe claims to be a clam chowder, though
    pure-hearted down-easters may disagree.

    Second flight, three wines, also semiblind:
    First is from our guests but, given the theme of the night we are not
    fooled, and anyway, this is a classical Bandol nose with barnyard and
    blackberries. Color intense, very dark.
    This, also has a certain fizziness in the mouth. Heavy tannines are balanced
    by fruit and a certain small acidity.
    WOTN, we are agreed.
    Ch Jean-Pierre Gaussen 2002
    We went to visit Mr Gaussen summer of 2006 on the advice of Mike Tommassi
    and, as is usually the case on following Mike's advice, it was great fun.
    But ... Chateau? To paraphrase Star Trek "it's a castle, Jim, but not as we
    know it".
    Second wine was different from the outset, being paler than #1 and #3. Also,
    nose, and palate, were clobbered with vanilla, vanilla, vanilla ... this
    wine had been mercilessly been beaten with a cudgel made from good ole
    Quercus albus ... also jamminess to the third degree. And alcoholic. I
    guess we're not in Provence anymore, Toto ... because this was
    Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre Contra Costa County 2005.
    Would this have been better with age? I sort of doubt it. What is elft of it
    could perhaps be used to simmer pears or peaches in?
    Third wine, in appearance very much like #1, also nose quite similar, but in
    mouth more dour, tannines more massive, a certain raisin feel to it.
    Tour du Bon 2000, the basic version, and, I think this, despite being the
    oldest wine in the lot, could have done very well with serveral years more
    in the cellar. Tonight it was too brooding, though very definitely Bandol.
    This too had this certain fizziness on the palate.

    What is this fizziness? Is it a secondary fermentation from Bret, kind of
    thing? Mike T is the person to ask about it.

    With the reds I had made lamb with black olives and garlic, with an orange
    and fennel sallad.

    ALl in all, good night with good frineds. Background music 3MA, a very
    special combo with three musicians from three African countries, MArocco,
    MAli, and MAdagascar, hence the name. The guy from Madagascar played a sort
    of zither made form a bamboo trunk, with 18 strings made from bicycle brake
    wires. AND he had lost his right hand in an accident in childhood. AND he
    handled this insturment with virtuosity and style (reminding me at times of
    the late and lamented Mississippi John Hurt in his stagepersonality). Hear
    this and be inspired, good gals and guys that you are.

    Cheers

    Nils


  2. #2
    Mike Tommasi Guest

    Default Re: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Mourv=E8drenight_with_friends?=

    Nils Gustaf Lindgren wrote:
    > Second flight, three wines, also semiblind:
    > First is from our guests but, given the theme of the night we are not
    > fooled, and anyway, this is a classical Bandol nose with barnyard and
    > blackberries. Color intense, very dark.
    > This, also has a certain fizziness in the mouth. Heavy tannines are
    > balanced by fruit and a certain small acidity.
    > WOTN, we are agreed.
    > Ch Jean-Pierre Gaussen 2002
    > We went to visit Mr Gaussen summer of 2006 on the advice of Mike
    > Tommassi and, as is usually the case on following Mike's advice, it was
    > great fun. But ... Chateau? To paraphrase Star Trek "it's a castle, Jim,
    > but not as we know it".


    Ha, yes, a messy place, but still impressive, cellar carved right into
    the rock and all...

    I believe chateau is a legally defined term here, and your winery must
    be called Domaine for x amount of years (I forget) and then it can put
    in a request to become a chateau. Many don't bother.

    > Second wine was different from the outset, being paler than #1 and #3.
    > Also, nose, and palate, were clobbered with vanilla, vanilla, vanilla
    > ... this wine had been mercilessly been beaten with a cudgel made from
    > good ole Quercus albus ... also jamminess to the third degree. And
    > alcoholic. I guess we're not in Provence anymore, Toto ... because this was
    > Cline Ancient Vines Mourvèdre Contra Costa County 2005.
    > Would this have been better with age? I sort of doubt it. What is elft
    > of it could perhaps be used to simmer pears or peaches in?
    > Third wine, in appearance very much like #1, also nose quite similar,
    > but in mouth more dour, tannines more massive, a certain raisin feel to it.
    > Tour du Bon 2000, the basic version, and, I think this, despite being
    > the oldest wine in the lot, could have done very well with serveral
    > years more in the cellar. Tonight it was too brooding, though very
    > definitely Bandol. This too had this certain fizziness on the palate.
    >
    > What is this fizziness? Is it a secondary fermentation from Bret, kind
    > of thing? Mike T is the person to ask about it.


    Er, Tour du Bon should not fizz... I doubt they have Brett, their wines
    are clean with none of the animals you find in some Bandols... :-) most
    likely refermentation in the bottle from low SO2 ?


    --
    Mike Tommasi - Six Fours, France
    email link http://www.tommasi.org/mymail

  3. #3
    Nils Gustaf Lindgren Guest

    Default Re: Mourvèdrenight with friends

    > Ha, yes, a messy place, but still impressive, cellar carved right into the
    > rock and all...

    Messy place, nice people, good wines!
    >> What is this fizziness? Is it a secondary fermentation from Bret, kind of
    >> thing? Mike T is the person to ask about it.

    >
    > Er, Tour du Bon should not fizz... I doubt they have Brett, their wines
    > are clean with none of the animals you find in some Bandols... :-) most
    > likely refermentation in the bottle from low SO2 ?


    Hmmm. Didn't taste like that. I shall have to ask Madame next time we pass
    by.
    BTW, we had the other half of said bottle last night and it had developed
    marvellously. Obviusly, it needs more time - a lot of more time ...

    Cheers

    Nils



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