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Thread: 13 Champagnes, 13 dishes, 18 guests

  1. #1
    Mike Tommasi Guest

    Default 13 Champagnes, 13 dishes, 18 guests

    Sunday 7 September Cathy and I got together with Nils Gustaf of AFW fame
    and Christina and 14 other friends for lunch around the theme of
    Champagne, each couple had to bring something they thought could pair up
    with well bred bubbles, and I would then determine the food-wine
    pairings. 13 wines were served, many biodynamic, all top names spanning
    just about all the best terroirs of the appellation, including the
    famous Chardonnays from Cramant, Le Mesnil, Avize and the famous Pinot
    Noirs from Aÿ and Ambonnay.

    Diebolt-Vallois: Blanc de Blancs Prestige (Cramant, Côte des Blancs),
    100% chardonnay 2/3 vinified in wood, with foie gras on grilled spicy
    shortbread with my home made eggplant jam. A wine that everyone loved,
    delicate and rich with good balance. ***

    Vilmart & Cie: Grand Cellier d’Or 2001 (Rilly-la-Montagne, Montagne de
    Reims), 70% chardonnay 30% Pinot Noir vinified in wood “foudres”,
    accompanied by two goat-cheese ravioli with my home made tomato jam. A
    fine delicate wine. **

    Bertrand Gautherot : Blanc d’Argile (Buxeuil-sur-Arce, Côte des Bar),
    100% Chardonnay, biodynamic, barrel vinified, served with wild smoked
    salmon from Sweden (Nils Gustaf & Christina). It is hard to match smoked
    salmon to wine, even harder with real smoked salmon, but everyone
    appreciated it with the slight oxidation of this powerful and, how can I
    say it, “precise” wine. ***

    Bérèche & Fils : Reflet d’Antan (Le Craon de Ludes), 50% Chardonnay 50%
    Pinot Noir barrel vinified, served with our cold cucumber and crab soup
    with a julienne of granny smith apples. A fresh and delicate wine for a
    zingy dish. **

    Pierre Moncuit : Blanc de Blancs 1996 brut (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Côtes
    des Blancs), 100% chardonnay, served with prawns, Puy lentils and dal
    (Lucien & Annie). Super wine, iodine, persistent. ***

    Benoit Lahaye : Fleur de Terroir (Bouzy, Côte des Noirs), 50% Pinot Noir
    50% chardonnay, biodynamic, vinified in barrels, powerful, lively and
    balanced, served with provençal stuffed eggplant and pepper rolls
    (Lucien & Andrée). Spicy food with concentrated tastes and a powerful
    wine to keep it all clean and fresh. **

    Champagne Raymond Boulard : Les Rachais 2002 (La Neuville aux Larris,
    Vallée de la Marne), 100% chardonnay, converting to biodynamic, served
    with spicy prawns (Bob). When this wine was younger, it exhibited the
    smells of the ocean coast, of oysters and seaweed almost, some of us
    loved it that way, and with time it has become round and well behaved
    with beautiful mineral character. ***

    Gatinois : Brut Millésime 2002 (Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne), 90% Pinot Noir
    10% Chardonnay, served with crostini of sardine fillets (Georges &
    Cathy). A powerful wine that fared well with the unctuous and almost
    delicate sardines. ***

    Larmandier-Bernier : Terre de Vertus (Vertus, Côtes des Blancs), 100%
    chardonnay, biodynamic, served with a glass of shrimp, avocado and
    grapefruit (Laurent & Manu). Super intense wine that played well with
    the acidity of the grapefruit and the fat of the avocado, nice effect. ***

    Roses de Jeanne : Blanc de Noirs « Les Ursules » (Celles-sur-Ource, Côte
    des Bar), 100% Pinot Noir, served on wild mushroom vol-au-vent (Jean
    Pierre & Evelyne). Autumn flavors on a delicate wine. **

    Egly-Ouriet : Brut « VP » (Ambonnay, Côte des Noirs), 70% Pinot Noir 30%
    Chardonnay with 84 months of bottle aging, served with duck breast
    marinated in Lagavulin whisky, morels and a light Chinese imperial tea
    sauce (Mike & Cathy). Extraordinary rich balanced wine well matched to
    the smoky aroma of the duck. ***

    Dehours & Fils : Blanc de Pinot Meunier 2003 (Cerseuil, Vallée de la
    Marne), 100% Pinot Meunier vinified in barrels, served with potatoes
    roasted in spiced “lardo” made by Elio’s mum (Elio & Ute). A generous
    wine for these finely spiced spuds. **

    Jacques Selosse : Exquise (Avize, Côte des Blancs), 100% chardonnay,
    dry, dosage 18g/l, served as a finale after (not really with) my home
    made duo of traditional blancmange of real almond milk (i.e. made only
    with water and almonds) topped by a "Bellini" of white peaches and
    sparkling Provence rosé lightly gelled with xanthan gum and surrounded
    by a miniature tropezienne cake and a raspberry macaron. After a dessert
    with summer flavors, this truly unique wine with a hint of marmalade and
    Christmas pudding completed our tasting. ***

    * = disappointing
    ** = nice
    *** = excellent
    Exactly equivalent to the DaleW scale, minus the minuses and pluses
    which are Dale's subliminal way of attaching numerical scores :-))))


    --
    Mike Tommasi - Six Fours, France
    email link http://www.tommasi.org/mymail

  2. #2
    Mike Tommasi Guest

    Default Re: 13 Champagnes, 13 dishes, 18 guests

    Mike Tommasi wrote:
    > Sunday 7 September Cathy and I got together with Nils Gustaf of AFW fame
    > and Christina and 14 other friends for lunch around the theme of
    > Champagne, each couple had to bring something they thought could pair up
    > with well bred bubbles, and I would then determine the food-wine
    > pairings. 13 wines were served, many biodynamic, all top names spanning
    > just about all the best terroirs of the appellation, including the
    > famous Chardonnays from Cramant, Le Mesnil, Avize and the famous Pinot
    > Noirs from Aÿ and Ambonnay.
    >
    > Diebolt-Vallois: Blanc de Blancs Prestige (Cramant, Côte des Blancs),
    > 100% chardonnay 2/3 vinified in wood, with foie gras on grilled spicy
    > shortbread with my home made eggplant jam. A wine that everyone loved,
    > delicate and rich with good balance. ***
    >
    > Vilmart & Cie: Grand Cellier d’Or 2001 (Rilly-la-Montagne, Montagne de
    > Reims), 70% chardonnay 30% Pinot Noir vinified in wood “foudres”,
    > accompanied by two goat-cheese ravioli with my home made tomato jam. A
    > fine delicate wine. **
    >
    > Bertrand Gautherot : Blanc d’Argile (Buxeuil-sur-Arce, Côte des Bar),
    > 100% Chardonnay, biodynamic, barrel vinified, served with wild smoked
    > salmon from Sweden (Nils Gustaf & Christina). It is hard to match smoked
    > salmon to wine, even harder with real smoked salmon, but everyone
    > appreciated it with the slight oxidation of this powerful and, how can I
    > say it, “precise” wine. ***
    >
    > Bérèche & Fils : Reflet d’Antan (Le Craon de Ludes), 50% Chardonnay 50%
    > Pinot Noir barrel vinified, served with our cold cucumber and crab soup
    > with a julienne of granny smith apples. A fresh and delicate wine for a
    > zingy dish. **
    >
    > Pierre Moncuit : Blanc de Blancs 1996 brut (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Côtes
    > des Blancs), 100% chardonnay, served with prawns, Puy lentils and dal
    > (Lucien & Annie). Super wine, iodine, persistent. ***
    >
    > Benoit Lahaye : Fleur de Terroir (Bouzy, Côte des Noirs), 50% Pinot Noir
    > 50% chardonnay, biodynamic, vinified in barrels, powerful, lively and
    > balanced, served with provençal stuffed eggplant and pepper rolls
    > (Lucien & Andrée). Spicy food with concentrated tastes and a powerful
    > wine to keep it all clean and fresh. **
    >
    > Champagne Raymond Boulard : Les Rachais 2002 (La Neuville aux Larris,
    > Vallée de la Marne), 100% chardonnay, converting to biodynamic, served
    > with spicy prawns (Bob). When this wine was younger, it exhibited the
    > smells of the ocean coast, of oysters and seaweed almost, some of us
    > loved it that way, and with time it has become round and well behaved
    > with beautiful mineral character. ***
    >
    > Gatinois : Brut Millésime 2002 (Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne), 90% Pinot Noir
    > 10% Chardonnay, served with crostini of sardine fillets (Georges &
    > Cathy). A powerful wine that fared well with the unctuous and almost
    > delicate sardines. ***
    >
    > Larmandier-Bernier : Terre de Vertus (Vertus, Côtes des Blancs), 100%
    > chardonnay, biodynamic, served with a glass of shrimp, avocado and
    > grapefruit (Laurent & Manu). Super intense wine that played well with
    > the acidity of the grapefruit and the fat of the avocado, nice effect. ***
    >
    > Roses de Jeanne : Blanc de Noirs « Les Ursules » (Celles-sur-Ource, Côte
    > des Bar), 100% Pinot Noir, served on wild mushroom vol-au-vent (Jean
    > Pierre & Evelyne). Autumn flavors on a delicate wine. **
    >
    > Egly-Ouriet : Brut « VP » (Ambonnay, Côte des Noirs), 70% Pinot Noir 30%
    > Chardonnay with 84 months of bottle aging, served with duck breast
    > marinated in Lagavulin whisky, morels and a light Chinese imperial tea
    > sauce (Mike & Cathy). Extraordinary rich balanced wine well matched to
    > the smoky aroma of the duck. ***
    >
    > Dehours & Fils : Blanc de Pinot Meunier 2003 (Cerseuil, Vallée de la
    > Marne), 100% Pinot Meunier vinified in barrels, served with potatoes
    > roasted in spiced “lardo” made by Elio’s mum (Elio & Ute). A generous
    > wine for these finely spiced spuds. **
    >
    > Jacques Selosse : Exquise (Avize, Côte des Blancs), 100% chardonnay,
    > dry, dosage 18g/l, served as a finale after (not really with) my home
    > made duo of traditional blancmange of real almond milk (i.e. made only
    > with water and almonds) topped by a "Bellini" of white peaches and
    > sparkling Provence rosé lightly gelled with xanthan gum and surrounded
    > by a miniature tropezienne cake and a raspberry macaron. After a dessert
    > with summer flavors, this truly unique wine with a hint of marmalade and
    > Christmas pudding completed our tasting. ***
    >
    > * = disappointing
    > ** = nice
    > *** = excellent
    > Exactly equivalent to the DaleW scale, minus the minuses and pluses
    > which are Dale's subliminal way of attaching numerical scores :-))))
    >
    >



    PS all wines were supplied by Le Cercle Champenois and selected by my
    friend Pierre Yves Cainjo who runs this incredible wine store.

    --
    Mike Tommasi - Six Fours, France
    email link http://www.tommasi.org/mymail

  3. #3
    Mark Lipton Guest

    Default Re: 13 Champagnes, 13 dishes, 18 guests

    Mike Tommasi wrote:
    > Sunday 7 September Cathy and I got together with Nils Gustaf of AFW fame
    > and Christina and 14 other friends for lunch around the theme of
    > Champagne, each couple had to bring something they thought could pair up
    > with well bred bubbles, and I would then determine the food-wine
    > pairings. 13 wines were served, many biodynamic, all top names spanning
    > just about all the best terroirs of the appellation, including the
    > famous Chardonnays from Cramant, Le Mesnil, Avize and the famous Pinot
    > Noirs from Aÿ and Ambonnay.


    What a great lineup of foods and wines, Mike. I'm jealous! I was
    actually surprised at the number of names that I recognized:
    Diebolt-Vallois, Vilmart, Moncuit, Boulard (of course),
    Larmandier-Bernier and the stardards Egly-Ouriet and Selosse.


    > Larmandier-Bernier : Terre de Vertus (Vertus, Côtes des Blancs), 100%
    > chardonnay, biodynamic, served with a glass of shrimp, avocado and
    > grapefruit (Laurent & Manu). Super intense wine that played well with
    > the acidity of the grapefruit and the fat of the avocado, nice effect. ***


    Sounds great. Isn't this the non-dosage version? I've had their
    regular NV Vertus, which is also a nice sparkling Chardonnay ;-)

    Mark Lipton
    --
    alt.food.wine FAQ: http://winefaq.cwdjr.net

  4. #4
    DaleW Guest

    Default Re: 13 Champagnes, 13 dishes, 18 guests

    Pretty nice lineup, though I think I've only had a few of those
    producers: Egly-Ouriet , Selosse, Vilmart, Moncuit, Larmandier-
    Bernier . Sounds like fun!

    > Exactly equivalent to the DaleW scale, minus the minuses and pluses
    > which are Dale's subliminal way of attaching numerical scores :-))))
    >

    Hey, did I ever claim there was any difference? To me, one is ranking
    wines whether one's system is points, grades, stars, prongs, Stooges,
    buy/don't buy, or any other scale you use. I use grades because it's
    most intuitive to me, but never have dissed those who use points or
    stars. My only objection is to those who claim a consistent and
    quantative meaning to those points, grades, stars, or prongs.

  5. #5
    Mike Tommasi Guest

    Default Re: 13 Champagnes, 13 dishes, 18 guests

    DaleW wrote:
    > Pretty nice lineup, though I think I've only had a few of those
    > producers: Egly-Ouriet , Selosse, Vilmart, Moncuit, Larmandier-
    > Bernier . Sounds like fun!
    >
    >> Exactly equivalent to the DaleW scale, minus the minuses and pluses
    >> which are Dale's subliminal way of attaching numerical scores :-))))
    >>

    > Hey, did I ever claim there was any difference? To me, one is ranking
    > wines whether one's system is points, grades, stars, prongs, Stooges,
    > buy/don't buy, or any other scale you use. I use grades because it's
    > most intuitive to me, but never have dissed those who use points or
    > stars. My only objection is to those who claim a consistent and
    > quantative meaning to those points, grades, stars, or prongs.


    ha ha ! Sensssssitivvvve... :-)

    Actually grades are intuitive, we grew up with them and are ingrained in
    our heads... I think A B and C are sufficient for wine; the + and -
    imply that you can have C- C C+ B- B B+ A- A A+ and maybe some -- and
    ++, so there you have a scale of 10. Anyhow, fundamentally we agree that
    there is nothing more ridiculous than comparing a 92 to a 93... :-)

    --
    Mike Tommasi - Six Fours, France
    email link http://www.tommasi.org/mymail

  6. #6
    Emery Davis Guest

    Default Re: 13 Champagnes, 13 dishes, 18 guests

    Mike Tommasi wrote:
    > DaleW wrote:
    >> Pretty nice lineup, though I think I've only had a few of those
    >> producers: Egly-Ouriet , Selosse, Vilmart, Moncuit, Larmandier-
    >> Bernier . Sounds like fun!
    >>
    >>> Exactly equivalent to the DaleW scale, minus the minuses and pluses
    >>> which are Dale's subliminal way of attaching numerical scores :-))))
    >>>

    >> Hey, did I ever claim there was any difference? To me, one is ranking
    >> wines whether one's system is points, grades, stars, prongs, Stooges,
    >> buy/don't buy, or any other scale you use. I use grades because it's
    >> most intuitive to me, but never have dissed those who use points or
    >> stars. My only objection is to those who claim a consistent and
    >> quantative meaning to those points, grades, stars, or prongs.

    >
    > ha ha ! Sensssssitivvvve... :-)
    >
    > Actually grades are intuitive, we grew up with them and are ingrained in
    > our heads... I think A B and C are sufficient for wine; the + and -
    > imply that you can have C- C C+ B- B B+ A- A A+ and maybe some -- and
    > ++, so there you have a scale of 10. Anyhow, fundamentally we agree that
    > there is nothing more ridiculous than comparing a 92 to a 93... :-)
    >


    Which is why the French are happy with the 20 point scale (which I guess
    was adopted as the Davis (no relation) scale). Every kid K through
    Terminal is graded out of 20...

    -E

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